Word count: 9639 | Since last entry: 1146
So here we are in Mexico. It actually smells somewhat different
from home, a dusty spicy sort of smell. But it doesn't feel
as foreign as Japan or Thailand, or even Italy. More foreign than
Canada or Australia, though.
Our language study has paid off. My comprehension isn't nearly as
good as I would like it to be, but I can communicate well enough
to ask "is the restaurant Caffe Mondo near here?" and kind of
understand the answer. Kate is still doing most of the talking, but
at least I can make out the signs at the museums.
The Guadalajara airport is all spruced up for last year's Pan
American Games. At Customs you press a button and get a red or
green light indicating whether you've been randomly selected for
screening, and the taxis (all of which are new) are dispatched from
a central window where you pay in advance. Both of these are
designed to prevent corruption by removing power from individuals
who might otherwise shake the tourists down.
Our B&B is in a rather industrial area but very nice inside,
and our host is friendly and chatty. The dog, Nuahal, is one of
the quietest, most polite little dogs I've ever met. I'm not a dog
person but I could actually like this one. This morning's breakfast
was fabulous: strong coffee; OJ; cocoa; fruit with yogurt
(with flax seeds) and granola (with pepitas and bee pollen); light
omelet with ham, mushrooms, and peppers and a fiery tomatillo salsa;
delicious beans; and aerodynamic tortilla chips with holes in.
This morning we started off by taking the bus downtown to the tourist
info office in city hall. It wasn't there any more, but we did see
a couple of enormous and rather insane murals by the famous local
artist Orozco. We did find a TI eventually, where we got maps but,
alas, no info on the buses. We also stopped by the Teatro Degollado
to find out about availability of tickets; we saw a huge Christmas-themed
sand sculpture and the famous bas relief of the founding of
Guadalajara, but the ticket office was not open (though the sign
on the wall claimed it was supposed to be). From there we walked
to the Rotunda of Famous Guadalajarans, then to the Casa de los
Perros (House of the Dogs), once the home of a famous dog fancier
and now a museum of journalism. There we saw famous revolutionary
newspapers (looking rather like fanzines), old printing presses,
UPI wire photo machines, and an old radio studio; upstairs, an
exhibit on the Spanish diaspora and a fun exhibit of prints by
students from the museum's printing workshop on the topic "Insectos
Santos." The bathroom held some surprises: you must pick up toilet
paper on the way in, and the urinals had valves rather than flush
handles (but the sinks had push buttons).
With some difficulty we found a mercado, where we had tacos al
pastor and tortas ahogados (sandwiches "drowned" in sauce) for
lunch, then took the bus back to our B&B for a nap. After that
we went back out by bus to Los Arcos (an interesting monument, but
the museum within was closed), the Orozco museum (closed for painting,
but they let us in to see the one mural still on display) and the
statue of Minerva (in the middle if a very busy traffic circle).
So the theme for the day is "we went there, but it was closed."
I gather this is kind of par for the course in Mexico.
By then it was dinner time, so we made our way to the above-mentioned
Caffe Mondo, but in keeping with the theme of the day it had been
replaced by a yogurt shop. Fortunately, Kate knew of another nearby
restaurant, El Sacromonte, where we had an excellent dinner (me:
Pollo El Delirio, stuffed chicken breasts with a pineapple-sesame
sauce; Kate: lengua) and finally walked back to the B&B. Total
walking for the day, according to Kate's pedometer: 18,940 steps (8
miles, 700 calories). I logged my food and exercise as best I could
and came up with a net of 123 calories BELOW my target for the
day... no wonder we don't gain weight while traveling.
After returning home for the day I wrote a few hundred words on the
novel. Following a suggestion from
maryrobinette I'm
not paying such close attention to the voice and it's going much,
much faster (I wrote over 800 words in less than an hour on the
plane). Of course, this will mean more work later.